Restaurant openings tend to be like buses — they pop up multiple times. Big Mike’s in Blackrock, Co Dublin was one of the most anticipated hotties this fall and perhaps Big Mike, or rather the ebullient Big Gaz, was surprised I didn’t show up on his first night.
our owner, whose facility I checked out the first week, complained that Gaz was lucky I wasn’t there for the first few days. In the case of this whiner, I had said some criticism but also many positive things about his new venture, for which he actually thanked me in a DM.
My sin I suppose is that I didn’t close my eyes and give him a 10/10. The truth is, one of our main courses was inedible, the mediocre dessert was overpriced, and the water carafe at our table was cracked. Should I leave these things out of a review?
Some restaurateurs forget that we are not their publicists. It is a critic’s job to act on behalf of the reader and give the facts instantly on new restaurants before spending their money. In fact, the biggest problem I had was following good reviews when people were disappointed. Believe me, they let me know.
Close
“We started off by sharing a delightful presentation of Fivemiletown Goat’s Cheese Mousse with organic beetroot, pistachio crumbs and clementine dressing.” Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan.
Unlike bloggers, professional critics don’t go to opening bouts to rave about a place fueled by the free munchies and plunk. They also don’t check during soft openings. However, once a restaurant charges full price, it can be checked.
In Big Mike’s case, I held back because Big Gaz very cleverly discounted all bills by 10 percent for the first few weeks. In other words, it was a soft opening. Second, I waited for his new chef, Peter Byrne, to take his place at the stove a month later.
Gareth ‘Gaz’ Smith was a Phenomenon on the Dublin restaurant scene in recent years, not to mention lighting up Twitter with his personal brand of wit and humor. He’s a master of communication and bold ideas – and that’s before he even comes to eat.
A few years ago he took over a neighborhood restaurant, Michael’s in Mount Merrion, and made a name for himself with spectacular seafood, steaks and a fun, professional atmosphere.
He soon had people begging for tables, so Michaels soon had a sibling, Little Mikes, a few doors down the road.
But now Big Mike’s is all bells and whistles, with a full license along with a discreet “back bar” called Mini Mike’s.
After Peter Byrne took his place on the team – which also includes well-known industry figures such as Nick Munier, Keith Hallissey, Darren Campbell and Jules Mahon – I took myself to what was originally Clodagh’s Kitchen. Clodagh McKenna, of course, is flying high in London, happily married to the late Queen’s godson, Harry Herbert, whose family seat is Highclere Castle, which doubles as a mansion Downton Abbey.
Anyway, I’m happy to report that Big Mike’s is the deal. With an elegant cocktail bar on the lower level where you can stop by for a drink, spacious leather booths and a sophisticated walnut hue giving walls and ceiling a cocooning vibe, I can see long evenings filled with fun, family gatherings and memories.
Close
“The team also includes well-known industry figures such as Nick Munier, Keith Hallissey, Darren Campbell and Jules Mahon.” GM Nick Munier and Chef Peter Byrne from Big Mike’s in Blackrock. Photo: Lucinda O’Sullivan.
The food was great. The signature dishes were there, from appetizers (€11-16) including duck and wild mushroom arancini with truffle aioli and oysters with Nan Wang’s XO sauce, to seafood bowls (€33.50) and 9oz fillet steaks ( €38); and 22oz Glenarm Shorthorn Rib-Eyes (€75).
We shared a delightful presentation of Fivemiletown goat’s cheese mousse (€11) with organic beetroot, pistachio crumbles and clementine dressing to start, whilst saving for the shared seafood platter, a bargain at €38pp. It was great. Sole on the bone takes center stage, surrounded by a chorus of Lambay Island crab, lobster fish cakes, clogherhead shrimp and mussels in lemon sauce.
Our bill with a New Zealand Babich Sauvignon Blanc 2021 (€44) and service was €145.
A class action. Please no whining.
Big Mikes, Upper Rock Hill, Blackrock, County Dublin. Tel: (01) 551 0332, michaels.ie
www.lucindaosullivan.com
#Restaurant #review #Lucinda #OSullivan #Big #Mikes #great #food #great